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Smelling Salts Journal

September 22, 2020

Fall Sewing Sketchbook

Happy Fall Equinox! If all goes well, right now, I’m having an epic bubble bath with my October magazines while the kids are off at their one-day-a-week-in-which-they-go-to-school-at-the-same-time because of cohorting!

After my gang-busters Summer sewing stint, I needed a long and well-deserved break. Still, I couldn’t stop dreaming of my next makes. So, I started sketching in the Sewing Journal I started this summer. [Did I tell you I started a sewing journal? Well I did…. And, as I’ve impressed upon you, previously, I am NO artist, so beware!] I also started building the most magnificent Fall 2020 stack of fabrics to work with from my local, Fabric Spark, Spool & Spindle in Waterloo, and Blackbird Fabrics online. Okay, I actually started building this stack over the summer, because, sales…

From top to bottom: Robert Kaufman London Calling Sweet Pea, Robert Kaufman London Calling Creamsicle, and Alexia Abegg Warp and Weft Cayenne [all from Fabric Spark], 7oz Linen in Rust [Blackbird Fabrics], Merchant & Mills Harvest Pink Jacquard [Fabric Spark], Repreve Recycled Poly + Cotton Stretch Denim in Mid-Blue [Spool & Spindle], Black and White Striped Poly-Viscose [Blackbird], Karen Lewis Wayside Railroad in Black [Fabric Spark]

So here is my vision of a much slower fall sewing season of essential projects, as well as a “page two” of makes that are somewhere down the road.

Fall Sewing Plans: Must Sews [Page One]

  1. A Long-Sleeve Wiksten Shift Top  in Merchant & Mills Harvest Pink Jacquard sourced from Fabric Spark. I’ve made this top a few times now, so it should be a pleasure.
  2. A self-drafted cozy scarf [with hand-pockets?] in the same fabrication.
  3. A medium-length Wiksten Jacket in Merchant & Mills Harvest Pink Jacquard and lined in Robert Kaufman London Calling Creamsicle, also sourced from Fabric Spark. This will be my third Wiksten Haori, so, again, it should be a comfortable make.
  4. The Sew-House-Seven Albert Street Pencil Skirt in mid-blue Repreve stretch denim from Spool & Spindle. Repreve is made from a blend of cotton and recycled poly. I was anxious the colour would be too “light” when I ordered it, but I am already IN LOVE with this denim. I’m excited to make thsi skirt, because pencil skirts are the BOMB, and this is a pattern especially for stretch fabrics. Also, I see this as a key wardrobe piece. The last time I had a denim pencil, it was a staple for YEARS. And I miss it!
  5. Blanca Flight Suit from Closetcase Patterns in Rust 7oz Linen from Blackbird Fabrics‘ summer sale, pockets lined with Alexia Abegg Warp & Weft Cayenne from Fabric Spark, with brass and rust centre and pocket zips from Wawak. I pee A LOT, so it will be interesting to see how I do in a jumpsuit :). I like the fact that this one has an easy front zipper.
  6. Another pair of Pauline Alice Romero Trousers in mid-blue Repreve stretch denim from Spool & Spindle, with buttons from Wawak, self-lined, or lined with any remnants from the archer top, below, or with Karen Lewis Wayside Railroad Black from Fabric Spark. These will also be a staple, or so I hope. [My previous sailor jeans were amazing. Unfortunatly, those RTW pants shrank strangely in the wash, such that one of the legs no longer fits.]
  7. The Sew-House-Seven Tea-House Dress in a black and white striped poly-viscose from the summer sale at Blackbird Fabrics. I see this as a “transitional” piece, and should probably start on this one first. It’s a really pretty design! It has pockets! And I hope to layer it in fall/winter over a turtleneck and thick tights.
  8. Grainline Studio Archer Button-up [pattern sourced from The Workroom] in Robert Kaufman London Calling Sweet Pea from Fabric Spark, with pearlized buttons from Wawak. This will likely be my slowest sew, as a basic shirt requires major precision. I might do it in sections over the course of a few weeks.

Fall Sewing Plans: The Final Stash Buster and the Possibilities [Page Two]

  1. Stash Buster: The cropped version of Papercut Patterns Sapporo Coat [pattern on hand, sourced from the Workroom] with the last of my fabric stash: a brown velvet and green lining fabric I used to make Christmas stockings back in 2001. When I get there, it will be gorgeous! […as long as I don’t wear it in front of the fireplace, come December!]
  1. Most Likely: Vogue V9138, view B, vest in blue corduroy or velveteen. [I own the pattern, but not the fabric.] I am going for a Cate Blanchett in Oceans 8 look, here.
  2. Self-drafted long tie, in the same. [More Blanchett.]
  3. Vogue V9138 pants, but with an added tuxedo stripe of ribbon, satin, or self, in the same.
  4. Vogue V9138 or Closet Case Jasika Blazer [I also have this pattern], in the same fabrication, possibly with satin lapels and tuxedo stripe, as above.
  5. Possibilities: Sewhouse Seven Toaster Sweater in maroon or rust. [I already have the pattern!] This looks like the kind of top I would wear all fall and winter.
  6. Grainline Studio Cascade Duffle Coat [pattern already purchased from Spool & Spindle] in Black Wool without toggles, square patch pockets, and a special embroidered ribbon trim. [I’d like to make this to replicate a fave fall coat I never should have given away].
  7. Soft Plaid, Cord, or Velvet Papercut Palisade Pants [already have the pattern]. I love the criss-cross pocket on this design!
  8. Tiny inset “portrait” of a green-patterned Christine Haynes Emery Dress [pattern purchased this summer], though what I’m really looking at is this awesome Sparkling Ocean design from Melissa Lowry, available on Spoonflower . With shipping from the States so incredibly slow…it may be my first Spring project of 2021!
  9. Sweatshirt Version of my fave Delphine Morissette Tangerine Blouse in something dark, with stars, constellations, or evil eyes! I might extend the gathering further down the armscye on this sew.
  1. The shorter version of the Grainline Studio Cascade Duffle Coat in a loud red or maroon plaid wool, after an amazing fall Coat Bette Davis wore in Dark Victory. OMG!
  2. An evergreen sweatshirt version of the Named Inari Tee Dress, with long sleeves, perhaps resized as a tunic or a maxi.
  3. Sweatshirt Version: Wilder Top from Friday Pattern Co. in rust or maroon.
  4. Thick cotton, perhaps fleece-lined, narrow-ish neutral Closet Case Pietra Pants [already have the pattern].
  5. Evergreen flannel or double-cotton, perhaps plaid, long-sleeved Paper Thoery Zadie Jumpsuit. I made the wrap-top hack this summer and I love the fit.

I’d be remiss if I didn’t point out the glorious Ruby Star Society Mask Panel I ordered from Spool & Spindle alongside a really great black and white Abstract Collage quilting cotton for more of the same.

So, yes, after a long hiatus from mask making [done for a hospital], and a brief foray in “pink” whilst teaching Bea to sew, masks once again happened here in the house. Though, I STILL can’t bring myself to talk about them much. And, believe you me, they will NEVER happen again….

Now, to start in on this glorious stack of fall wonders!

Filed Under: Essays, Handmade, Living, Top 3

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Welcome to Smelling Salts! I'm Roseanne, and this is where I record my best recipes, take notes on arts, culture, and style, and write essays about what keeps me going.
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